Amman, Feb. 21 (Petra) - One passing through Jordanian markets during the holy month of Ramadan cannot help but enjoy the aroma of qatayef or watch its preparation, a process that attracts lovers of the dessert who never tire of observing the stages of its making as they gather around the vendor filling his tray with batter poured onto a heated metal griddle.

Once the qatayef are cooked before their eyes, customers rush to buy them, especially shortly before iftar, to fill and cook them, sharing them while still warm after being prepared by the housewife.

Qatayef, which is produced exclusively during Ramadan, is associated with being the main dessert of the holy month. It is usually shaped like a crescent, resembling the crescent of Ramadan, and is consumed after iftar and sometimes during suhur, making it one of the most prominent Ramadan traditions.

Most Jordanian families maintain this custom, considering it a tradition that never disappears from the Ramadan table, where it faces no competition from other popular sweets during the month. Jordanians prefer it filled with walnuts or cheese, while other countries are known for different fillings, such as pistachios in Syria or clotted cream in Lebanon.

Yassin Akkash Abu Al-Saadi, owner of Dar Al-Surour restaurant in downtown Amman, which has operated in the area since 1930, said that "Abu Ali," master craftsman Farhan, who used to make qatayef throughout the year on the Kalha steps in King Hussein Street opposite the Arab Bank building today, along with Al-Qudsi shop a small outlet located after the Ministry of Finance near the stairs leading to Jabal Al-Luweibdeh were the first to introduce specialized, standalone qatayef production in Amman after 1948.

He added that at the time, there were Jabri Restaurant, Dar Al-Salam, and Dar Dahdah, which used to make maamoul al-madd. He noted that the sons of master Farhan continued their father’s craft of producing qatayef in another shop on King Faisal Street today.

Oral accounts, meanwhile, recall that residents of Karak Governorate knew qatayef as a Ramadan dessert as early as 1938, having been introduced through cultural and social exchange with neighboring regions.

Abu Mohammed, who makes qatayef with remarkable skill, said, "My main profession is making traditional sweets of various kinds, but during Ramadan I devote myself to qatayef. Customers line up in front of my shop since midday, and it becomes my main source of income during the holy month." Regarding the ingredients of qatayef batter, he explained that it is made of fine flour used for sweets, milk, and yeast. The smooth batter appears after rapid cooking, which takes less than one minute, forming honeycomb-like cells.

Qatayef are made in various sizes, which the people of the Levant and Egypt named after birds. The smaller size is called "asafeeri," the larger "hamami," while some are made in sizes exceeding 25 centimeters in diameter.

After being filled, qatayef is served with several fillings, most notably ground walnuts mixed with coconut and cinnamon, as well as cheese, clotted cream, and pistachios. Some add pine nuts, raisins, almonds, or peanuts. It is served either grilled or fried after being soaked in syrup, while some prefer to eat it raw filled with cream.

Although the traditional method of making qatayef pouring batter from a jug onto a heated griddle still exists, large bakeries and sweet shops use modern machines that produce qatayef in uniform sizes and larger quantities in less time. However, Jordanians still prefer qatayef made using the traditional popular method.

Muhammad Al-Ta’ani said he enjoys watching the batter and savoring its pleasant aroma while observing the production stages.

President of the General Syndicate for Bakery Owners, Abdel-Elah Al-Hamwi, said qatayef is a Ramadan ritual that has existed since ancient times, forming part of the life of the holy month.

He added that it provides the body with energy that helps withstand fasting for about 12 hours, which is why bakeries have continued producing it during Ramadan.

The administrative manager of the factories of Al-Haj Mahmoud Habiba Company, Mohannad Hani Habiba, said the origin of qatayef traces back to the Levant in general and gradually entered Jordan, without a specific individual responsible for introducing it, noting its strong association with Ramadan.

He said a fasting person craves qatayef on the first days of Ramadan, noting that demand increases during the first third of the month.

He confirmed that qatayef has remained traditional without major development, which helped preserve its popularity. He added that it is best known for walnut and cheese fillings, while cream filling is less widespread.

He pointed out that "asafeeri" qatayef were originally filled with cream, but nowadays they are also filled with different types of chocolate, such as Nutella, Lotus, and pistachio.

//Petra// AF